DESCRIPTION
The varied, partly hilly or mountain terrain with its extensive woods and pastures, the anything but simple history complete with its iconic figures, the plethora of legends, as well as the ancestral, traditional lifestyle that still prevails in certain communities, all these have turned Transylvania, located within the great arc created by the Carpathians, into a region with great resonance across the world. Its complex history, the different empires and migratory populations, they all left their traces across Transylvania. When all is said and done, in just a millennium, the region saw itself as part of the Dacian Kingdom, then of Roman Dacia, it fell under the rule of the Goths, Huns, Gepids, Avars and Slavs before becoming part of the Kingdom of Hungary in 1002 where it stayed until 1920 with the exception of most of the 16th and 17th centuries when it was a vassal principality to the Ottoman Empire. This already dense history was further enriched with King Géza II’s inviting the Saxons to settle especially in Central – Southern Transylvania so as to protect the kingdom border and to populate a rather remote part of the kingdom. The Saxons obliged and, together with the Székely, a branch of the Hungarians living in Eastern Transylvania, soon realized the need to turn their towns, villages, churches and even houses in virtual fortresses against the frequent Ottoman and Tartar invasions, a situation that led to part of the great heritage we can explore today, one including fortress-towns, fortified churches and even the typical houses featuring a tall enclosure and impenetrable gates. Therefore, let us proceed and follow the traces of the populations that inhabited this region, from the mountain top-located, remote fortresses of the Dacians onwards. All that with a both picturesque and accurate image in mind provided by a romantic 1938 novel:
“A strange little town, crammed onto the steep slope of a wooded hill. In appearance, it resembled an old German town with its multitude of eaves and peaked roofs in their various hues of brown and red. In the old days, the town had been surrounded by ramparts; in places parts of the strong walls still stood, crowned here and there with low towers reminiscent of the Middle Ages. A lazy little river glided noiselessly at the foot of the walls, drawing a wide curve around as if it held the whole town in its embrace. A little further on, it straightened its course and descended hastily into the valley where it finally disappeared among tall poplars and old willows. […] The oldest building in the town was the church, perched on the very top of the hill, having overlooked the valley below for centuries. Further on was the cemetery: picturesque, somewhat gloomy, shaded by numerous trees. The tombstones were old, moss-grown, and their edges worn by the passing years; their appearance was that of things long abandoned, long forgotten. In summer, however, large bushes of wild roses enlivened this corner of oblivion with spots of brilliant colour. […] During the summer months, the little red-roofed town saw many visitors from other regions, for it was full of charm and wonderful tranquility, and its church seemed to beckon and invite those down in the valley. Not only was there much to see in the town, but visitors loved walking along the cobblestone streets, passing under the many strange, low arches topped with turrets and old clocks with their painted displays.”
Queen Maria of Romania – “Masks”
DAY 1
Bucharest – Prejmer – Brașov – Bran
This morning we shall cross the Carpathians and head straight to the Saxon Land or the Siebenbürgen. This name referred to the Seven Fortress Towns on which the Saxon administration relied from the 12th century until the 19th century: Hermannstadt (Ro. Sibiu), Kronstadt (Ro. Brașov), Mediasch (Ro. Mediaș), Schäßburg (Ro. Sighișoara), Mühlbach (Ro. Sebeș), Klausenburg (Ro. Cluj), respectively Bistritz (Ro. Bistrița). And we shall start exploring the region with one of the once around 300 fortified churches in Transylvania, of which around 150 still remain. Featuring an imposing church surrounded by a strong defensive wall complete with a maze of 272 small cells disposed on 4 floors, accessible on wooden stairways, bridges and paths, Prejmer is evocative for the way Saxons found to protect themselves, their families and supplies at invasion time, when inhabitants retreated to their specifically allocated cell within the wall surrounding the local church. We shall then carry on with one of the seven Saxon fortress-towns in Transylvania, Brașov, sitting at the foot of the forested Mount Tâmpa; the lively Republicii Street and Council Square and the imposing Black Church owing its name to the 1689 fire that had its walls darkened. The late afternoon will see us in Bran with its buzzing centre saying little about the wonderful, serene countryside around the town, and that for one solid reason, i.e. the iconic castle built by the Saxons in 1377 on the site of a former wooden fortification set by the Teutonic Knights in 1212. A short drive will deliver us into wonderful countryside right after going through the narrow castle halls and imagining the view it must have commanded over the former border crossing road that joined Wallachia and Transylvania then part of the Kingdom of Hungary.
- Breakfast.
- Mountain crossing into Transylvania.
- Visit to the fortified church in Prejmer.
- Walk across the old town of Brașov including exterior views of the Council Tower and the Black Church.
- Visit to Bran Castle.
- Accommodation in Șimon, Măgura or Peștera, 3* mountain lodge.
DAY 2
Bran – Rupea – Viscri – Dârjiu – Sighișoara
Leaving Bran and its location between two dramatic mountains, the Bucegi and the Piatra Craiului, we shall go towards the central part of Transylvania this morning. The first stop will appear rather obvious from quite a distance, as the fortress there going back to 1324 sits on
a hilltop overlooking the road; its size and layout make it an impressive sight, while the fact that it once hosted many craftsmen belonging to 12 guilds further strengthens this image. Then, leaving the main road, we shall reach the small village of Viscri complete with its colourful houses, small and picturesque fortified church (if compared to the one in Prejmer) and scenic location among smooth rolling hills covered in pastures, fields of crops and patches of forest; with most ethnic Germans living here fleeing to Germany after the 1989 fall of the Communist regime, the village would have probably fallen into ruin hadn’t it been for one diligent mayor, Ms. Caroline Fernolend and one famous heritage appreciative guest, King Charles III, the latter buying an old Saxon house, having it restored and founding a trust meant to provide know-how to locals interested in following suit and getting involved in the tourism business. Still off the main road, after crossing scenic countryside and entering the Székely Land, we shall make the following break in Dârjiu, home to yet another fortified church with its own particularities (among which the fact that a fortress tower was especially meant to store smoked ham) and a slightly different layout; however, the frescoes inside depicting St. Ladislau’s legend, are the highlight of the visit here. The last stop of the day will be in Sighișoara, a fortress town going back to 1191, which would become one of the major craftsman and artisan centres in Transylvania and beyond. The walls surrounding the old town are for the most part well visible and dotted with guild-built bastions, while a walk taking in the narrow streets, the many (164) colourful houses within the walls, the wooden stairway, the Church on the Hill and the massive Clock Tower is definitely rewarding!
- Breakfast.
- Visit to Rupea Fortress.
- Walk around Viscri and visit the local fortified church.
- Visit to the fortified church in Dârjiu.
- Walk across the old town in Sighișoara.
- Accommodation in Sighișoara, 3 or 4* guesthouse set in one of the old houses in the fortified town.
DAY 3
Sighișoara – Biertan – Alba Iulia – Hunedoara
The late Gothic style fortified church in Biertan will show yet another manner in which these buildings were all different. The hilltop location in the middle of the village, the long stairway leading there and the hall-like church are all equally impressive, while the little details and curiosities add to the local charm while nonetheless providing a comprehensive image of the period lifestyle and atmosphere: do not miss the intricate lock or the one table, one chair, one bed room where those intending to divorce were locked so that they might reconsider their decision. Then, after crossing yet another scenic part of Transylvania, we shall reach Alba Iulia, home to a different kind of fortress: the star-shaped, Vauban style Alba Carolina completed in 1738; only walking along or between the subsequent layers of its walls can give one a better image of its actual size. In the late afternoon we shall reach Hunedoara, home of the iconic Hunyadi Castle; the resemblance to the Vajdahunyad Castle in Budapest is due to the fact that the latter, built in 1896, was highly inspired by this one. The image of the fairy tale castle built in 1446, complete with its access bridge and vast Knights’ Hall is definitely going to stay with us for a while…
- Breakfast.
- Visit to the fortified church in Biertan.
- Visit to the Vauban style Alba Carolina Fortress (walk).
- Visit to the Hunyadi Castle in Hunedoara.
- Accommodation in Hunedoara or Deva, 3* or 4* hotel.
DAY 4
Hunedoara – Orăștie – Costești Fortress – Sarmizegetusa Regia Fortress – Orăștie – Sibiu
An Indo European ethnic group, the Dacians lived in tribes settled across a region greater than actual Romania and Moldova. King Burebista’s campaigns against the Greek towns on the Western Black Sea coast in 55 BC and later, after a period of decay and fragmentation, King Decebalus’ reuniting the kingdom in 86 AD upset the Romans to the point where Emperor Trajan led two invasions against Dacia, the first one unsuccessful in 101-102 AD and the second one successful in 105-106 AD. The resilience of the Dacians relied heavily on a very well conceived network of fortifications located up in the highlands, often on remote, hardly accessible or mountain tops, but also on the fact that they saw death as a transient process (they believed that, while the body might die, the soul can travel and reincarnate), were often buried with their weapons and did not believe in destiny. Based on this philosophy and on the power of their priests, some scholars have argued that Dacia was rather a theocracy and not a kingdom, but the lack of extensive information sources make it hard to draw a clear conclusion. Back to it, the said network of remote fortresses makes it no wonder that one needs to drive deep into the heart of Șureanu Mountains in order to reach their capital at Sarmizegetusa with its atypical layout. And we need add that the whole mountain region around is dotted with the remains of other fortresses such as Blidaru, Fețele Albe, Căpâlna, Piatra Roșie or Bănița, but due to access, relevant remains and time-related reasons we shall focus on the best preserved, the Sarmizegetusa Regia and the Costești. At the end of a quite long day up there, we shall reach Sibiu, the former Capital of Culture in 2007 and yet another one of the seven major Saxon towns in Transylvania, with Emperor Trajan’s words in mind:
“We have conquered even these Dacians, the most warlike of all people that have ever existed, not only because of the strength in their bodies, but also due to the teachings of Zamolxis who is among their most hailed (gods). He has told them that in their hearts they do not die, but change their location, and, due to this, they go to their deaths happier than on any other journey”.
- Breakfast.
- Drive to the Dacian fortresses in Șureanu Mountains (completed by short and easy walks needed to reach the sites below).
- Visit to Sarmizegetusa Fortress.
- Visit to Costești Fortress.
- Accommodation in Sibiu, 3* guesthouse set in a period property in the old town.
DAY 5
Sibiu – Cârța – Cozia – Bucharest
Sibiu was mentioned for the first time in 1191 and saw a constant growth of its importance to the point where it was the most important cultural and administrative town of the Transylvanian Saxons for a considerable part of the Middle Ages. Its economy traditionally relied heavily on trade and crafts, and as early as the 14th century saw 19 guilds active in Sibiu. At the same time, from the early 15th century it was a played a central role in learning, hosting the Universitas Saxonum, an association of pedagogues, council men, ministers, officials and generally intellectuals. The very well preserved old town we shall see today gravitates around the three – and all different – central squares (the Great, Small and Huet) squares overlooked by the gilded City Hall, Council Tower and the Evangelical Church respectively. The charm of the old town is further completed by several curiosities that add colour to the experience here, such as Liars’ Bridge and the Sibiu Eyes. Then, leaving the town and before proceeding South across the mountains, we shall make a detour to Cârța, a Cistercian monastery probably founded in 1202-1203 and first set in wood, then replaced by a stone structure built in two stages separated by the 1241 Great Mongol Invasion. The grand still standing walls, the great tower and the overall layout create a fine medieval image that will definitely stay with us on the way down River Olt into Wallachia. A way that will ply the impressive gorges cut by the mighty river to Cozia, where the 1388 Cozia Monastery with its fine Byzantine architecture. In the evening we shall reach Bucharest at the end of a memorable journey taking in the heterogeneous Transylvanian heritage.
- Breakfast.
- Walking tour of the three squares within the old town in Sibiu.
- Optional visit to the Brukenthal Palace hosting the local art museum (not included, closed on Mondays and Tuesdays; allow 1 to 2 hours for the visit; in this case, Cârța and Cozia should be skipped).
- Visit to the Cistercian Monastery (ruins) in Cârța.
- Visit to Cozia Monastery.
- Drop off in Bucharest.
- End of services.
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