DESCRIPTION
Rolling hills. Bucolic meadows and wide pastures dotted with sheep. Mansions set amid lush, flowerful gardens. Geese down the willow-plied road. Cattle herds returning home in the evening. Impressive carved wood Székely gates complete with the wonderfully laid down, unmissable sun and moon symbolistic. Church steeples jutting from meandering valleys. Old burgs and fortifications perched on hilltops. Impressive fortified churches with a myriad of little storage cells set along their walls. Scattered hamlets and cottages across endless hillsides. Horse-pulled carts piled up with hay, wood or crops. Saxon-built medieval towns complete with their narrow, winding cobblestone paved streets, colourful houses and atmospheric squares. Well preserved traditions, whether it is about pottery, local cooking and music, wood carving or embroidery. Countless legends and stories that could hardly fit the scenery any better. These, and much more taken in at our own pace, with the convenience of being able to stop or make the detours we wish. Because there hardly is any better way of approaching Transylvania’s two distinct regions in terms of culture and traditions than by cycling up and down its meandering, scenic country roads while leaving the maddening crowd behind. A journey that invites, well beyond anything else, to make break upon break and, head propped on the backpack propped on the bicycle propped against a tree, to allow oneself to go (day) dreaming, as composer and plane pilot Ionel Fernic argued:
“Every single day, the citizens of Ploieşti could spot down Independence Avenue a grown up man wearing a beret and a short-sleeved shirt, pedaling hard on a racing “Diamant” bicycle. That man was me. At the age of 24, I was living my childhood dream… It is true that I quickly got tired of this sport and after two months I sold the bicycle (which I have not fully paid off even to this day) for half the price, but I was happy: I had not let a dream die…”
DAY 1
(Bucharest) Brașov – Hărman – Hăghig – Aita Mare – Micloșoara
With an optional shuttle from Bucharest (3 to 4 hours) and after leaving behind the city buzz in Brașov, the route today allows a smooth warming up ride, with short and easy uphills and generally a pleasant introduction into rural Transylvania. An introduction that will also have us look into the particular feature of the Siebenbürgen (the region where the Saxons settled, organized around 7 main towns) where this tour starts, that of the fortified churches. The church in Hărman goes back to 1240, based on an older Romanesque basilica, and it was surrounded by fortification walls in the 15th century, so as to withstand the frequent invasions. After crossing in the Székelyföld, when in Aita Mare, we shall see that the Székely also resolved to have their churches fortified for the same defensive reason (the 15th century local church still preserves some of the original wall painting depicting scenes from St. Ladislau’s story). The cycling day will see us in Micloșoara, with its picturesque 17th century hunting mansion of the Kálnoky Family, nowadays hosting an eye opening Transylvanian (Aristocracy, we would add) Lifestyle Museum. We shall then stay overnight in one of the traditional old houses run by the Kálnoky Family in the village.
- Optional shuttle from Bucharest (3 to 4 hours).
- Meeting the guide and picking up the bicycle in Brașov (alternatively, to avoid riding the bicycle in town, the tour may start in Hărman);
- Luggage shuttle to Micloșoara.
- Cycling route: Brașov – Hărman – Aita Mare – Micloșoara.
Technical data: 54 km. / +200 m. / -300 m.- Optional visits along the way: Hărman Fortified Church, Aita Mare Fortified Church (calling ahead necessary for the latter).
- Optional activity in Micloșoara: kürtőskalács (local dessert) cooking presentation (prior booking needed).
- Dinner on the Kálnoky Estate, based on local ingredients and recipes.
- Accommodation in Micloșoara, traditional houses converted into a bed and breakfast (no TV sets).
DAY 2
Micloșoara – Tălișoara – Vârghiș – Ocland – Rupea – Dacia – Viscri
In the morning we may visit the Kálnoky Mansion for a relaxed insight into the life of the upper class in this part of Transylvania in the Middle Ages. And then, after crossing some bucolic countryside, we shall reach Tălișoara, home to the fine 17th century Daniel Mansion (nowadays converted in a hotel and event venue) and a still working blacksmith which also runs a small museum dedicated to his craft. In an area well-known for its mansions, the following village, Vârghiș, hosts another mansion built in the 16th century by the same family. Then, after more pedaling and passing by the imposing Rupea Fortress (formerly known as the Castrum Cuholm) sitting on a hilltop, we shall approach Viscri, a fine Saxon village where the then King Charles III purchased an old house and had it restored, then provided the know how and assistance for local people to follow suite, with the results we shall see in this highly picturesque place complete with its smaller, but beautiful fortified church. In the evening, watching the cattle return home may say more about the tranquil, slow pace life here than any speech or book.
- Breakfast.
- Luggage shuttle to Viscri.
- Cycling route: Micloșoara – Tălișoara – Vârghiș – Ocland – Rupea, Dacia – Viscri.
Technical data: 66 km. / +450 m. / -400 m.- Optional visits along the way: exterior views of the two Daniel mansions in Tălișoara, respectively Vârghiș, visit to Rupea Fortress and to Viscri Fortified Church.
- Dinner at a local house in Viscri.
- Accommodation in one of the typical Saxon houses in Viscri.
DAY 3
Viscri – Dacia – Jibert – Apold – Vulcan – Sighișoara
Heading across the very centre of the country and of Transylvania in particular, we shall cross village upon village with picturesque views and infinite opportunities to stop and take in the view. And then, with a recorded history going back to 1191, Sighișoara will welcome us with its bastions that were built by the different guilds in town, with its imposing Clock Tower, the picturesque streets lined up with colourful houses, the Wooden Stairway leading up the hill where the upper church and highschool are located, and nonetheless with its captivating atmosphere of old. Then, should we still have the steam for it, a walk up the Breite Hills just South of town will be pleasant and relaxing, with the ancient oaks there creating a fine background at the end of a longer day in the saddle.
- Breakfast.
- Luggage shuttle to Sighișoara.
- Cycling route: Viscri – Dacia – Jibert – Apold – Vulcan – Sighișoara.
Technical data: 78 km. / +700 m. / -850 m.- Optional visits: the 14th century fortified church in Brădeni, a walk up the Breite Hills off Sighișoara to see the old oaks there, a walk across the fortress town of Sighișoara.
- Accommodation in Sighișoara, in a 3* guesthouse or hotel set in one of the old buildings inside the fortified town.
DAY 4
Sighișoara – Venchi – Prod – Hoghilag – Dumbrăveni – Saroș pe Târnave – Biertan (or, alternatively, Sighișoara – Apold – Brădeni – Agnita – Richiș – Biertan)
This cycling day allows us to choose among two options.
- The main option starts with a rather short (6 km.) shuttle into Venchi or a ride along paved and gravel roads to the Venchi fork, we shall head back to the countryside, carrying on to Seleuș. A 5 km. gravel, but well kept road will follow on to Prod where we shall meet the paved road again and head on to Hoghilag and eventually Dumbrăveni. Once home to a significant Armenian population that settled in the 17th century, Dumbrăveni still preserves an impressive Armenian church set in Baroque style and going back to the 18th century. Leaving the town, after crossing the Târnava Mare, we shall proceed smoothly upstream to Biertan. This option includes a potential shuttle in the beginning and includes a leg along a gravel road, crossing major roads a couple of times, but it allows one to see the impressive Armenian church in Dumbrăveni. A 10 km. longer ride is possible
- The other option starts with a backtrack, true, but a scenic one up the pleasant valley we came down along the previous day, to Brădeni (22 km.), followed by an enchanting cycle on across fine, remote countryside and by the great, imposing bell tower of the 14th century fortified church in Netuș to Agnita. Then, after hopping over a forested hill, we shall proceed down a scenic valley across Richiș with its church that remains from an old monastery, to Biertan, home to the largest of the fortified churches in Transylvania sitting atop a hill overlooking the valley and village. This option avoids gravel roads and focuses more on the countryside, but starts with a backtrack (even though a highly scenic one!). In this case, the following day will see a 10 km. backtrack to the top of the hill above Richiș.
- Breakfast.
- Luggage shuttle to Biertan.
- Cycling route with two options:
- Sighișoara – Venchi – Prod – Hoghilag – Dumbrăveni – Biertan.
Technical data (without the shuttle into Venchi): 39 km. / +300 m. / -250 m., with the option of adding 10 km. and +200 / -150 m. by going Dumbrăveni – Alma – Dupuș – Biertan. - Sighișoara – Apold – Brădeni – Agnita – Richiș – Biertan.
Technical data: 73 km. / +600 m. / -550 m.
- Sighișoara – Venchi – Prod – Hoghilag – Dumbrăveni – Biertan.
- Optional visits: the fortified churches of Richiș and Biertan (option 1) or exterior view of the Evangelic – Lutheran School in Seleuș, the Armenian church in Dumbrăveni and the fortified church in Biertan.
- Accommodation in a guesthouse in Biertan.
DAY 5
Biertan – Richiș – Zlagna – Nocrich – Chirpăr – Săsăuș – Cârța
After going upstream via Richiș, we shall continue to Zlagna and its 15th century stone wall church and then cross village upon village, pasture upon pasture and orchard upon orchard to Chirpăr with its 13th century fortified church. So frequent were the invasions sweeping across the region (especially the Tartars, Pechenegs and Cumans) that the local people here and in nearby Veșeud built a fortress so as to be able to withstand them. Then, after crossing Săsăuș and River Olt, we shall reach our destination for the day, Cârța. The village is especially notable for the Easternmost Cistercian Abbey. Founded in the 13th century, the abbey was closed two centuries later. A tall steeple and the façade, as well as some of the old walls still stand creating a quite romantic atmosphere speaking of the days of old and inviting to contemplation at the end of another cycling day.
- Breakfast.
- Luggage shuttle into Cârța.
- Cycling route: Biertan – Richiș – Zlagna – Nocrich – Chirpăr – Săsăuș – Cârța.
Technical data: 68 km. / +600 m. / -550 m.- Optional visits: the colourful, well restored Nocrich church (even though newer than the others in the region, going back to the beginning of the 19th century, with four bastions of the 16th century bastions still standing), the fortified church in Chirpăr, the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey in Cârța.
- Accommodation in Cârța, in a local guesthouse.
DAY 6
Cârța – Colun – Săcădate – Avrig – Tălmaciu – Sadu – Cisnădie – Sibiu
We shall first ply slow paced River Olt along quiet, gravel roads for a while (16 km.) this morning, taking in the great views Southwards, with the impressive Făgăraș Ridge, the highest mountains in the country rising some 2000 m. above us in the background. And then, after crossing the river and the town of Avrig with its extensive palace built in Baroque style by Baron Samuel von Brukenthal in 1777, we shall once again carry on across scenic countryside. In Cisnădie we can admire the local fortified church founded in the 13th century and featuring a massive, 59 m. tall bell tower, and then we shall reach Sibiu. Mentioned for the first time in 1191 as Cibinium (name still born by the mountains South-West of the city), Sibiu will definitely invite us for a walk across its central squares, around its impressive Evangelic Church and the appealing Brukenthal Palace or City Hall.
- Breakfast.
- Luggage shuttle to Sibiu.
- Cycling route: Cârța – Colun – Săcădate (gravel road) – Avrig – Tălmaciu – Sadu – Cisnădie – Sibiu.
Technical data: 68 km. / +500 m. / -450 m.- Optional visits: exterior view of the Brukenthal Mansion in Avrig, visit to the fortified church in Cisnădie, walk across the old town in Sibiu.
- Accommodation in Sibiu in a period property within the old town.
DAY 7
Sibiu – Rășinari – Gura Râului – Sibiel – Săliște – Tilișca – Sibiu (Bucharest)
This morning we shall once again leave the bustling city and head straight to the countryside. After an optional visit to the extensive Astra Folk Technology Museum set in Dumbrava Forest, with the plethora of traditional houses and very interesting wind mills, we shall continue across villages founded by shepherds that came down the mountains and settled in the area. Even though we are still in the Siebenbürgen and Sibiu was indeed one of the seven Saxon towns, this area has seen different traditions and a different lifestyle, which adds to its charm and to the heterogeneous image Transylvania and generally Romania are about. At the end of the ride we may opt for a shuttle back to Sibiu. An alternative way of pedaling more today would be to have a shuttle to Jina, the remotest of the shepherd-settled villages, and cycle quite more down into Sibiu from there. Either way, the tour can end with a shuttle on to the local airport or to Bucharest (5 hours), as chosen.
- Breakfast.
- Cycling route with two options:
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- Sibiu – Rășinari – Gura Râului – Sibiel – Săliște – Tilișca, followed by shuttle back to Sibiu. Technical data: 36 km. / +450 m. / -300 m.
- Shuttle up to Jina and cycling route all the way down to Sibiu (Jina – Poiana Sibiului – Tilișca – Săliște – Sibiel – Gura Râului – Roșinari – Sibiu). Technical data: 55 km. / +450 m. / -1000 m.
- Optional visits: the open air Astra Museum in Dumbrava Forest, the glass painted icon collection in Sibiel.
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- Shuttle to Sibiu Airport or to Bucharest, as chosen (allow around 5 hours for the latter option).
- End of services.
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