DESCRIPTION
Located in a region where Bukovina (North Moldavia) meets Transylvania and Maramureș, the Suhard and the Rodna are two very appealing, neighbouring mountain ranges and we have chosen to join them on the same tour because they complement each other well. First, the Suhard, complete with their smooth crests covered with pastures host an intense pastoral life and going up their 1932 m.a.s.l. peak is excellent for warming up. Then, the 2303 m.a.s.l. Rodnas provide a fine opportunity to trek for a couple of days or more along their smooth ridges dotted every now and then with cliffs and rocky terrain or scree slopes. The fine glacial lakes in the Eastern part (the Lala Mare and Lala Mică) as well as just North of the highest peak (the Iezer), the many tumultuous creeks and wild valleys, as well as the great woodlands especially down the long Southern foothills and secondary crests, all invite for extensive exploration. Then, the Rarău provide a highly contrasting ad-on to the other two mountain ranges with its dramatic Doamnei Cliffs complete with their vertical walls and breathtaking views. Other than that, the vicinity of traditional, rustic regions such as the Bukovina and Maramureș make it possible to have a combined nature and culture experience while there, one guided by Vasile Alecsandri’s words in his 19th century “A Walk in the Highlands”:
“I have seen many kinds of landscapes in different countries, but I have rarely encountered the majestic and untamed beauty in the mountains of Moldavia. The land, the woods, the rocks, the streams up there are still in the primaeval state of nature and nowhere around can one notice man-made inserts with their ugly and prosaic alterations. Up the mountains, man is simpler, his life is more peaceful, his temper is more innocent. The highland man is pure in heart, free in thought and speech, and green in body like the evergreens in the shade of which he lives. The highland woman is tall and lean, cheerful, agile, clever and beautiful. How can your heart not beat with joy and contentment in the bosom of such majestic and poetic places, inhabited by people whose appearance charms your eyes and soul!”
While our tour below focuses on the most dramatic parts of the two mountains with accommodation in B&Bs in the villages down, there are many options available, especially for those willing to spend the night in a mountain shelter or camping, as there are no tourist huts above the treeline. While the tour starts with a drive from Suceava (where the nearest airport and major railway station is located) and also ends there, various options can be arranged according to your particular request.
DAY 1
Suceava – Câmpulung Moldovenesc – Iacobeni – Cârlibaba (drive) – Stânișoara Peak – Omului Peak – Rotunda Pass (trek)
A smooth, pleasant start, with pastures, woods and sheepfolds up the highest point in Suhard Mountains in true Bukovina style. And, just before reaching the trailhead in Cârlibaba, a chance to see the unique ‘pui’ in Ciocănești, where local people decorate their houses with plaster patterns inspired from the traditional embroidery.
- Pick up from your hotel in Suceava.
- Drive from Suceava to Câmpulung Moldovenesc – Iacobeni – Cârlibaba (ca. 3 hours).
- Luggage shuttle to Rizea Hut.
- Trek: Cârlibaba – the ski slope – Stânișoara Peak – Omului Peak – Rotunda Pass (2 hours to the Stânișoara, 1 hour to the Omului, 2 hours to Rotunda Pass). Technical data: 20 km. / +1200 m. / -850 m.
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Dinner at Rizea Hut (not included).
- Accommodation at Rizea Hut.
DAY 2
Rotunda Pass – Gaja Crest – Ineuț Peak – Ineu Peak – Omului Peak – Gărgălău Peak – Gărgălău Saddale – Borșa Resort (trek)
‘Long is the way to the Ineuț!’ one might say while treading the trail up the Gaja. Long, but rewarding, we argue, as the views from the Ineuț and the Ineu are just as grand as they sometimes are unexpected. The typical Rodna scenery complete with its alternation of smooth crests and rocky sections follows, culminating on Gărgălău Peak, from where its is all down to Borșa Resort.
- Breakfast at the hut.
- Luggage shuttle to Borșa Resort.
- Trek: Rotunda Pass – Gaja Crest – Ineuț Peak – Ineu Peak – the Coasta Netedă – Omului Peak – Gărgălău Peak – Gărgălău Saddle – Cailor Falls – Borșa Resort (4 hours to Ineu Peak, 3 hours to Gărgălău Saddle, 2 hours to Borșa Resort). Technical data: 28 km. / +1650 m. / -2050 m.
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Dinner at the accommodation (not included).
- Accommodation at a 3* hotel in Borșa Resort.
DAY 3
Borșa Resort – Cailor Lake – Galațului Peak – Puzdrele Peak – La Cărți – Tarnița La Cruce – Rebra Peak – Buhăescu Mare Peak – Pietrosul Peak – Borșa Town (trek)
The most dramatic part of the Rodna, culminating on the rocky (if seen from the North, less so if seen from the South) Pietrosul at its 2303 m.a.s.l. And one captivating outlaw story on the way there, in La Cărți Pass. Take our word with that!
- Breakfast at the hotel.
- Luggage shuttle to Borșa Town (or there will be a transfer from the trailhead in Borșa town to Borșa Resort which is 12 km. away).
- Early start (at the latest at 07:00 AM).
- Trek: Borșa Resort – Cailor Lake – Galațului Peak – Puzdrele Peak (or it may be skipped while avoiding it to the North) – La Cărți – Tarnița La Cruce – Buhăescu Mare Peak – Pietrosu Peak – Iezer Lake – Borșa Town (3 hours to the Galațului, 1 hour to the Puzdrele, 2 hours to off the Rebra, 1 hour to the Pietrosul, 3 hours down to Borșa). Technical data: 31 km. / +2050 m. / -2200 m.
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Dinner at the accommodation (not included).
- Accommodation at a 3* hotel in Borșa or Borșa Resort.
DAY 4
Borșa – Iacobeni – Pojorâta – Transrarău Road (drive) – Doamnei Cliffs – Rarău Peak (trek) – Câmpulung Moldovenesc – Suceava
A short trek, yet a memorable one, with the vertical Doamnei Cliffs overlooking the vast woods at their foot. Of rocks, boulders, scree and walls, as well as of extensive woods, fine pastures and – why not – the great Bukovina bulz (polenta cooked in milk, mixed with spicy ‘burduf’ cheese, fresh cheese and curd, then baked for an hour or so)! Me-mo-ra-ble.
- Breakfast at the hotel.
- Drive from Borșa to Alpin Lodge up the Transrarău (3 hours).
- Trek: Alpin Lodge – the Doamnei Cliffs circuit including the optional hike up to a viewpoint – Rarău Peak – Alpin Lodge (2-3 hours according to whether the optional detour is included or not; rocky terrain with scree sections, steeper trail up to the viewpoint). Technical data: 5 km. / +200 m. / -200 m.
- Drive to Suceava (2 hours).
- Drop-off at your hotel in Suceava (accommodation not included).
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