DESCRIPTION
First, the horseshoe-shaped Iezer – Păpușa with the rockier and steeper Iezer, respectively the round, grassy Păpușa, provide the warming up playground for the Făgăraș. Then, the highest mountain range in the country (2545 m.a.s.l. on Moldoveanu Peak), the Făgăraș also have one of the longest ranges in Romania, stretching for over 70 km., a serious competitor for Harghita and Ciuc mountains. Nicknamed the ‘Transylvanian Alps’ due to their massive, rugged outlook when spotted from fields up North, the Făgăraș used to mark the border between Wallachia and Transylvania (the latter part of the Hungarian Kingdom, then Austro-Hungarian Empire) and many of the trails heading up there were initially either shepherd or border guard trails. The central part is rather rugged, with steep slopes, rocky faces, gendarmes, pinnacles and impressive cliffs, while the extremities and especially the Southern foothills are smooth, round, home to intense sheep grazing. The many glacial lakes, the fine trail plying the main ridge and nonetheless the consistent up-and-down, as well as the relative remoteness make these mountains equally demanding and rewarding. A special note here goes to the famous Transfăgărășan Road, completed in 1974 and primarily meant as a military road, that goes up to 2042 m.a.s.l. and crosses the ridge through a tunnel; while it is not the highest mountain road in the country (that is the Transalpina in Parâng Mountains reaching 2200 m.a.s.l. in Urdele Pass), it is highly scenic and provides a good easy hiking opportunity for those that do not have the time or stamina to embark on a longer and more demanding journey in the Făgăraș. The tour below takes in the most dramatic part that can be done by trekkers, but 6-7 day, complete treks can also be done, with the note that they require camping gear, while here we have covered the part that can be done based on lodges and huts. Please note that on Day 2 we cannot shuttle luggage, so that you will need carry your backpack and a lighter one is recommended.
Technicalities and logistics aside – let them folks at Orbis Unum sort them out -, let us head up there with a local’s words in mind (even though he would become famous in Paris later, Emil Cioran was born in Rășinari, not very far from the Western end of the Făgăraș ridge):
“When you get to live in the mountains, everything else resembles nothing but unparalleled mediocrity.”
DAY 1
Bucharest – Câmpulung – Voina Hut (drive) – Bătrâna Creek – Iezerul Mare Peak – Crucea Ateneului – Iezer Shelter – Bătrâna Creek – Voina Hut (trek) – Câmpulung (drive)
One may call this a warming up day, but we prefer to see it as a mountaineering feat in its own right, as the way up the Iezerul Mare complete with its significant gain, great views and diverse scenery is one of a kind, and so is the descent down the pasture, then juniper sea – surrounded creek below the scenic Iezer Lake. The day can be shortened (by going down before reaching the Iezerul Mare) or lengthened (by also going up the Roșu, the highest peak in the Iezer – Păpușa at 2469 m.a.s.l.).
- Pick-up at your hotel in Bucharest.
- Drive from Bucharest to Câmpulung – Voina Hut (ca. 3 hours).
- Trek: Voina Hut – Bătrâna Creek – Iezerul Mare – Crucea Ateneului – Iezer Lake and Shelter – Bătrâna Creek – Voina Hut (1 hour up Bătrâna Creek, 1.5-2 hours to the treeline, 2 hours to the Iezerul Mare, 1 hour to the Crucea Ateneului, 3-4 hours back to Voina Hut, with the option of skipping the Iezerul Mare and having a total of 6-7 hours out there). Technical data: 18,50 km. / +1500 m. / -1500 m. (including the Iezerul Mare) or 16,00 km. / +1250 m. / -1250 m. (skipping the Iezerul Mare and turning around at Iezer Lake).
DAY 2
Câmpulung – Burnei Sheepfold (drive up the long dirt road plying Rea Valley) – Viștea Mare Peak – Moldoveanu Peak – Podragu Saddle – Dragons’ Window – Capra Lodge (trek)
A long, equally demanding and rewarding day reaching Romania’s highest point; beautiful glacier-shaped scenery complete with calderas, scree slopes and fast creeks, grand views and one short sharp ridge with short cable secured sections between the Viștea Mare and the Moldoveanu; once past the peak, an enchanting section plying the main Făgăraș ridge culminating with the rocky La Trei Pași de Moarte (En. ‘Three Steps Away from Death’, not due to a particularly dangerous leg but rather to a war story when any soldier popping his head over the cliffs risked being shot) and the picture perfect Dragons’ Window. Grand!
- Early start (06:00).
- Drive from Câmpulung to Slatina – Doamnei Creek – Brunei Sheepfold (ca. 4 hours).
- Luggage transfer on to Capra Lodge.
- Trek: Brunei Sheepfold – Galbena Lakes – Moldoveanu Peak – Viștea Peak – Podragu Saddle – Podul Giurgiului – Mircii Peak – Dragons’ Window – Capra Hut (3 hours to Moldoveanu Peak, 2 hours to Podragu Saddle, 2 hours to Dragons’ Window, 2 hours to Capra Lodge). There are two short, but more demanding sections today: the Moldoveanu Split and a rocky outcrop just before Dragons’ Window (in a ridge section also known as ‘Three Steps from Death’, but not due to the difficulty, rather due to the fact that during WW1 one’s lifting his head over it could result in his being shot by the army on the opposite side). Technical data: 17,50 km. / +1600 m. / -1500 m. (or 18,50 km. / +1700 m. / -1600 m. if going up via Galbena Lake so as not to backtrack the Viștea Mare – Moldoveanu leg).
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Dinner at Capra Lodge (not included).
- Accommodation at Capra Lodge 3*.
DAY 3
Capra Lodge – Paltinu Saddle – Negoiu Peak – Negoiu Hut (trek)
Another true Făgăraș day with the best these mountains have to offer, from grand calderas to imposing cliffs and boulders, from scenic glacial lakes to extensive pastures! The rocky Negoiu, crossing two calderas, taking in the view both Southwards and Northwards with the particularly different features of the two, with longer than life, smoother valleys to the South and shorter, steeper valleys and ridges to the North. Another wonderful, highly diverse day!
- Early start.
- Breakfast.
- Optional transfer up to Bâlea Lake (to save the going up the ridge).
- The main luggage stays in the car until the afternoon of Day 4 (no luggage transfer to Negoiu Hut is possible).
- Trek: Capra Lodge – Paltinu Saddle – Lăițelul Peak – Călțun Lake – Berbeci Cwm – Negoiu Peak – Negoiu Lodge (2 hours to Paltinu Saddle, 2 hours to Călțun Lake, 2 hours to Negoiu Peak, 2-3 hours to Negoiu Lodge). The terrain today the the most demanding of the tour, with several sections of scree, gravel and steep slopes. Technical data: 15 km. / +1500 m. / -1500 m.
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Dinner at Negoiu Hut (not included, please note the menu is rather limited to one or a couple of options only).
- Accommodation at Negoiu Hut.
DAY 4
Negoiu Hut – Scara Peak – Off Ciortea Peak – Avrig Lake – Bârcaciu Hut – Poiana Neamțului Motel (trek) – Bucharest (drive)
A close look down the Northern valleys with their flora, a break by one large glacial lake and another one by one of the old world, small huts in the Făgăraș before returning to the hustle and bustle of contemporary Romania.
- Early start.
- Breakfast.
- Trek: Negoiu Hut – Scara Peak – off Ciortea Peak – Avrig Lake – Bârcaciu Hut – Poiana Neamțului (1,5 hours to the Scara, 3 hours to Avrig Lake, 2 hours to Bârcaciu Hut, 2 hours to the trailhead off Poiana Neamțului; given the potential fatigue, add 1 hour more). Technical data: 17,50 km. / +1200 m. / -2000 m.
- Transfer to Bucharest (5 hours).
- Lunch pack from the accommodation (not included).
- Drop off in Bucharest (no accommodation included).
Photo Gallery
