DESCRIPTION
Located in the very scenic mountainous region of the Eastern Carpathians and divided between Romania and the then U.S.S.R. following the latter’s ultimatum of June 26, 1940 (with a brief retake of Northern Bukovina by Romania as an ally of Nazi Germany in 1941-1944), Southern Bukovina lies in Romania nowadays, while the Northern part lies in Ukraine. With a typical borderland history, Bukovina saw a quite dramatic demographic evolution so that the 10th century saw its population formed by a mix of Ruthenians (old Ukrainians), Vlach (old Romanians), Pechenegs and Cumans (Turkic peoples). The end of the 10th century saw it under Kievan Rus’ rule from which it was taken the following century by the Principality of Galicia, just to become part of the Principality of Moldavia in the 14th century. Ottoman and Tartar invasions, as well as fights with Poles that took parts of the region for brief periods of time were among the events that marked the Middle Ages. Then, following the Russian-Turkish War of 1768-1774, the region was conquered by the Russian Empire which passed it to the Habsburgs in gratitude for their help in the war. As part of the Austrian-ruled Galicia or as a distinct province, Bukovina remained under Austrian rule until 1918, when it became part of the Kingdom of Romania, just to be sliced by Stalin following the aforementioned ultimatum in 1940. A region of superb highland scenery consisting of extensive woods, dramatic mountains and smooth pastures, Bukovina hosts a diverse population including, among others, Romanians, Ukrainians (including the Hutsul highlanders), Jews, Rromani and Poles. But what attracts most travelers here is the extraordinary cultural and traditional heritage of the land. The crafts from Easter egg painting to embroidery, from black pottery to church wall painting, the local music, cuisine, vernacular architecture and rituals are as captivating as they are well preserved. At the same time, the mist coming out of the deep valleys in the morning, the endless forest-covered crests, the remote hamlets and the shepherds moving up and down the mountains make an outstanding background for these experiences, as beautifully sung by a rock band called just that: Bukovina:
“Ode to the snowy mountains,
That are holding up the sky with their peaks,
And to the wild forests –
The mystic cradle of those living here.
Ye road going upwards – ye mountain trail,
Ye road running through the grass and in the shade of them fir trees,
Ye road climbing towards the setting sun,
Ye road steeply leading up the Mestecăniș.
Hidden in mist, unreachable,
Stretching from the valley, from them deep ravines to the hazy peaks,
Heading to the South, ye well weathered road,
Winding your way up the Mestecăniș.”
Bucovina – “Mestecăniș”
DAY 1
(Bucharest) Suceava – Dragomirna Monastery – Putna Monastery – Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului
Not possible on Mondays unless Suceava Fortress is opted out
Our journey will begin in the largest city in Bukovina, in Suceava (or in Bucharest with a morning flight / previous day drive), with its late 14th century fortress that hosted the princely court for around two centuries. Not very far from the fortress, we shall visit St. John’s Monastery in Suceava, completed in 1522 and a very good introduction to religious architecture in Bukovina. Leaving Suceava, we shall then visit Dragomirna Monastery surrounded by strong fortress-like walls. Completed in 1609, its church has an atypical shape and volume, with its disproportionately tall structure compared to its footprint. The intricate steeple and rough stone façade – polished pilasters alternation make it highly aesthetic. Farther Northwards, we shall call at the very busy Putna Monastery, a religious and cultural centre. Completed in 1469, three years after the commencement of the works, Putna hosts Prince Stephen the Great’s grave and is a major pilgrimage site. The adjacent religious art museum provides an excellent introduction in Orthodox art and culture, while the nearby Daniel the Monk’s Grotto complete with its story grant the visit here more charm and personality.
Optional flight from Bucharest to Suceava or previous day’s drive from Bucharest to Suceava followed by accommodation in town (not included).
- Pick-up in Suceava in the morning.
- Visit to Suceava Fortress.
- Visit to St. John’s Monastery in Suceava.
- Visit to Dragomirna Monastery.
- Visit to Putna Monastery and Daniel the Monk’s Grotto.
- Optional (time allowing) visit to the religious artefact museum at Putna Monastery.
- Accommodation in a log mountain lodge in Frasin / in a traditional, genuine old house in Poieni Solca / in a guesthouse inspired by local houses in Gura Humorului.
DAY 2
Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului – Arbore Monastery – Humor Monastery – Voroneț Monastery – Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului
A true painted monastery day will take us today to some fine pieces of architecture and craftsmanship. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, these masterpieces impress not only through their architecture and svelte steeples, but also through the fact that their walls were covered with extensive frescoes depicting various scenes from the Bible (of which the Siege of Constantinople and the Last Judgment are the most frequently pictured) in an attempt to pass on the Scripture texts to a population that was often illiterate. We shall commence with the smaller Arbore Monastery built in 1502, with its rustic appearance, then carrying on with
Humor Monastery completed in 1530, with its reddish brown intensive frescoes and massive tower. Then, the most famous of the Bukovina monasteries, Voroneț, complete with its enigmatic blue paint and evocative Last Judgement fresco, was built in 1488 in as little as 3 months and 3 weeks. The day will not be over however without a closer look at – and taste of – the local cuisine. Bukovina people often say they have been raised on milk alone, and there is no wonder the hillsides and pastures are dotted with cattle, goats and sheep. Therefore, the local cuisine makes good – and plenty of – use of the dairy products and one such dish is the “bulz”, very popular among shepherds up the mountains, but also with villagers in a region where the wheat does not grow due to the colder and more humid climate. Today you will see how it is made, from the polenta it relies on to the specific dairy used and nonetheless to the particular fragrance coming from the oven once the pot goes in there.
- Breakfast.
- Visit to Arbore Monastery.
- Visit to Humor Monastery.
- Visit to Voroneț Monastery.
- Bulz cooking demonstration.
- Accommodation in a log mountain lodge in Frasin / in a traditional, genuine old house in Poieni Solca / in a guesthouse inspired by local houses in Gura Humorului.
DAY 3
Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului – Marginea – Sucevița – Moldovița – Sadova – Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului
With a tradition that goes back over 2000 years, the black, unglazed pottery in the region comes together with its blend of floral and religious motifs and patterns that make it highly attractive and decorative even in the absence of colour; the popularity of the black pottery in the region resulted in the fact that before the Communist regime there were around 60 potters in Marginea alone. This craft will provide a good introduction to the traditions of the region, to be continued later in the day. After leaving Marginea, we shall however revert to the local monasteries, with two absolute jewels. First, there will be the fortress-like Sucevița built in 1585 and featuring highly elaborate and delicate frescoes, proof of the fact that, this being one of the last local monasteries to be painted, it benefitted from the experience craftsmen had got while working on the others. Then, Moldovița Monastery going back to 1532 and adorned with well preserved frescoes among which the Tree of Jesse and the Fall of Constantinople. Back to local crafts, we shall use the rest of the day while visiting local craftsmen and discovering their techniques and patterns, in a region where old crafts are still alive and their products still used, including traditional shoes (Ro. opinci), light blouses (Ro. ie) and thick skirts (Ro. catrință) embroided with local patterns, as well as carved wood pots, spoons and cups…
- Breakfast.
- Visit to a black pottery workshop in Marginea.
- Visit to Sucevița Monastery.
- Visit to Moldovița Monastery.
- Break in Sadova and visit to local craftsmen (into wood carving, textile embroidering / weaving or traditional leather shoe making).
- Accommodation in a log mountain lodge in Frasin / in a traditional, genuine old house in Poieni Solca / in a guesthouse inspired by local houses in Gura Humorului.
DAY 4
Frasin / Poieni Solca / Gura Humorului – Brodina – Zalomestra – Ehrește – Izvoarele Sucevei – Iedu – Cârlibaba – Ciocănești – Vatra Dornei
This morning we shall head up to Brodina in an area inhabited by many Hutsul. The origin of the Hutsul, a population inhabiting regions of Bukovina, Maramureș and Transcarpathia and Pokuttia (the later two fully in Ukraine), is debated by scholars, yet they might have started as a single or multiethnic group of people that fled into the highlands so as to escape the 13th century Mongol invasion. They speak a specific Ukrainian dialect and traditionally led a semi-nomadic, shepherd life (before the region fell under Austrian rule in the 18th century, transhumance saw shepherds moving with their flocks up and down the mountains, across extraordinary distances), living in remote hamlets, often with poor access or only footpaths out. Living on their pastureland, the woods around, with their cattle, sheep and poultry, they became highly skilled in crafts that could turn their limited resources into life-supporting ware, while at the same time living in harmony with their environment (for instance, they used to hug and talk to a tree before felling it, and never felled more than what they really needed). Let us take half a day and head up there to meet them. First, in Brodina, we are going to see a few typical wooden Hutsul houses and a local lady will show us the tradition of Easter egg painting. There are two techniques employed while at that, of which the Hutsul use the latter: the natural pigment paint, which is applied with a small brush, respectively the “batik” or “pisants” technique according to which a wax pattern is created on the egg which is then immersed in paint, the wax being then melted and wiped off and the whole process repeated with other patterns and colours until creating a complex design. We shall then leave the touring car and hop on a 4WD vehicle, heading up the trails leading to the remote hamlets of Zalomestra and Ehrește, where sparse houses dot the pastures in a wonderful natural environment. Back down, we shall carry on along dirt roads crossing fine mountain scenery and a couple of villages to the wide Bistrița Valley. Heading downstream, we shall have a welcome break in Ciocănești, so as to take in the local tradition of ornating the exterior walls of a house with patterns inspired by local embroideries. And then we shall carry on and have a relaxing evening in the spa town of Vatra Dornei, surrounded by no less than 4 mountains: the Suhard, Călimani, Bistrița, Giumalău.
- Breakfast.
- Egg painting demonstration and presentation of Hutsul ware in Brodina.
- Drive up the mountains and around the hamlets of Zalomestra and Ehrește.
- Walk in Ciocănești to see the local “pui”, houses decorated with embroidery-inspired patterns.
- Accommodation in a 4* mountain lodge or 3* guesthouse in Vatra Dornei.
DAY 5
Vatra Dornei – Pojorâta – Transrarău Road – Lady’s Cliffs – Râșca Monastery – Dolheștii Mici – Suceava (Bucharest)
First, we might enjoy a short walk to the local market where, among others, shepherds come sell their “caș” (fresh cheese) and other dairy. Then, the touring will continue with a drive up the mountains. And it is not the elevation (1651 m.a.s.l.) that is particularly evocative when heading up the Rarău, but rather the unexpectedly dramatic, nearly vertical Pietrele Doamnei (En. Lady’s Cliffs) jutting from the evergreen woods like a bunch of sharp knives. A drive to a mountain lodge up the Rarău followed by a 10-15 minute walk will deliver us to the treeline affording a view of the cliffs, while a further one hour walk around them (scree and rocky terrain on the way, hiking shoes and average physical condition needed) will allow us to see these magnificent rocks from different sides. Once down the Transrarău, we shall carry on and make a detour to the South just out of Bukovina proper, we shall see Râșca Monastery. Built in 1542, the monastery was devastated by the invading Tartars and it was abandoned before being restored in the first part of the 17th century, just to be devastated time and again during the same and following century. The monastery church walls are painted like at the other monasteries we have visited today, but what makes Râșca unique in the region is the fact that the frescoes are done in Byzantine style unlike the Bukovina monasteries we have already seen. Our last day on tour cannot be complete without a craft experience, so that a short drive away will deliver us to a typical village lacking any major monument but where local people are keen on preserving their traditions. After a great local meal complete with local music, we shall visit two of the village craftsmen, the fur coat maker and the blacksmith, for yet other real life stories from this part of Romania. A part of Romania that we shall part with now, but will definitely carry the memories of for quite a while…
- Breakfast.
- Optional walk to the local market.
- Visit to Râșca Monastery.
- Visit to two craftsmen in Dolheștii Mici: a blacksmith and a fur coat maker.
- Traditional meal with live local music in Dolheștii Mici.
- Drop off in Suceava or optional flight out of Suceava to Bucharest.
- End of services.
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