DESCRIPTION
A lesser publicized region, Wallachia saw a long history where many of those passing through or settling had their say on the traditions, customs and generally on the lifestyle of the actual population. The term designating the local people as “valah” (En. Wallachian) first referred to Romance language speakers or Romans in a wider sense, and it would later be used for the whole region running South of the Carpathians to the Danube; it all started with Romans’ conquering Dacians in the 105-106 AD war and settling in, but, while the name was coined at a later point and stayed, the region itself did not settle that easily, as wave upon wave of migratory peoples followed, including the Goths, Sarmatians, Huns, Slavs, Avars and Gepids, to end for a while with the establishment of the First Bulgarian Empire that incorporated Wallachia between the 7th and the 10th centuries. The Pechenegs and the Cumans, both Turkic peoples, were followed by the Mongols that swept across a good share of Europe in 1241 and the region was then vassal to the Hungarian Kingdom between the
end of the 13th century and 1330. Smaller and stronger local polities had already started to take shape and following rebellion, then battles with the troops of the Hungarian Kingdom, led to the settlement in Câmpulung of the first capital of the Wallachian state that took shape this way; the capital would later move to Curtea de Argeș and then down to Târgoviște, respectively Bucharest). After a period of time that also saw a confrontation with the armies of the Second Bulgarian Empire, the state got stronger.
Entered the Ottoman Empire, the 1453 Fall of Constantinople and the Balkans falling under Ottoman rule. While Wallachia did not become part of the empire, it would in fact be, with some interruptions, its vassal for more than 4 centuries, a period that saw taxes being collected by and some of the local rulers being assigned by or at least approved by the Ottomans, in exchange for certain benefits among which the right to keep and practice one’s faith (Orthodox Christianity). Fighting against the Ottomans dotted this period as well. For instance, midway through the Ottoman influence over Wallachia, Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu, a highly cultivated figure that created his own architectural style (with brilliant works in Potlogi, Mogoșoaia, Horezu, as well as with a wave of Brâncoveanu style architecture in Bucharest and all across Wallachia going all the way to South Transylvania) attempted an alliance with Peter the Great’s Imperial Russia against the Ottomans, the latter found out and had him, together with his sons, promptly beheaded in Istanbul in 1714. The principality would then see itself caught between the three major regional powers and inherently in their wars: the Ottomans, the Russians and the Habsburg monarchy. The rise of enlightened intellectuals with Western Europe-bred ideals, the revolutions of the 19th century, as well as the multiple Russian-Turkish wars would lead to the strengthening of the principality, the 1859 unification with Moldavia and the 1877 declaration of independence. A tumultuous history that has also shaped up in more practical terms the architecture, music (or generally the arts), cuisine and lifestyle one meets when traveling to Southern Romania today. One where a still omnipresent Oriental beat meets fine cusped arches and succulent dishes or pastry, but also one where the Paris or Vienna-educated intellectual wave and subsequent shift towards the West of the 19th century has added in the Neoclassical architecture and the extraordinary impressionist painting. Therefore, hardly more complex and captivating a region to explore, one stretching from the sunny Danubian Plains to the hills dotted with monasteries, then all the way up the mighty crests of the Carpathians. A region where man and nature share an age-old kinship and where no encounter down the road is either forgotten or a mere accident, as Nichita Stănescu reminds us:
“He offered me a leaf like a hand with fingers.
I offered him a hand like a leaf with teeth.
He offered me a branch like an arm.
I offered him my arm like a branch.
He tipped his trunk towards me
like a shoulder.
I tipped my shoulder to him
like a knotted trunk.
I could hear his sap quicken, beating
like blood.
He could hear my blood slacken like rising sap.
I passed through him.
He passed through me.
I remained a solitary tree.
He
a solitary man.”
DAY 1
Bucharest – Drăgășani – Craiova
Not possible on Mondays
Our tour will start with a 3 hour drive to Drăgășani, in the middle of Oltenia, a region that saw the Dacians conquered by the Romans, the Roman withdrawal and the migratory people waves including the Goths and Huns, then the rise of the First Bulgarian Empire and eventually the formation of local polities that led to the formation of a Wallachian state in the 14th century, the latter that would see the Hungarians, Ottomans, Austrians, then the Ottomans anew, come and go. Complicated as things may look from a distance, they all get simpler as the eye is charmed by the extensive vineyards and one gets to taste the excellent local wines including the local white Crâmpoșie or the red Negru de Drăgășani. Then, with a relaxed mind, we shall proceed Southwards to Craiova, which emerged as the seat of the ‘bans’ (local rulers coming from a powerful landlord family, initially the Craiovescu). The region being generally out of the main tourist routes in the country, commercial sightseeing is next to absent here, while the visitor is rewarded with an authenticity that makes it easier to understand the local culture than elsewhere in the country. Whether one starts with Constantin Brâncoveanu’s House of the Bans going back to 1699 and featuring a blend of the fortified “cula” houses (we shall see more of that in Măldărești) and the typical Brâncoveanu decorative style, with the pedestrian streets talking of its once thriving trading life, with the the old church at Coșuna Monastery completed in 1572 and featuring the Byzantine building style of different alternating layers when putting up a wall or of the pleasant streets bordered by grand houses (such as the excellently restored Casa Romanescu and the Casa Dianu), sometimes surrounded by almost lush vegetation built by the rich aristocratic families of the past, Craiova has something for everyone. And we cannot miss Dini Mihail’s Palace, an eye-catching, impeccably white residence from 1896 and currently hosting the art museum complete with fine sculptures by Constantin Brâncuși. As for the atmosphere, the fast beat of traditional Oltenian music could hardly go better with the grilled, thin local sausages and a glass of the said Negru de Drăgășani…
- Pick-up in Bucharest or at the airport.
- Drive to Drăgășani (around 3 hours).
- Wine tasting joined by local snacks at Isărescu or Știrbey estates.
- Visit to the church of the Coșuna Monastery.
- Walk across the old town in Craiova including a visit to the Ethnographic Museum hosted in Bans’ House and a visit to the Art Museum hosted in Dini Mihail’s Palace (in case of a late arrival, some or all visits can be done the following morning, provided it is not a Monday).
- Accommodation in Craiova, elegant 3* guesthouse hosted in a period house or, optionally, lodging can be arranged in an elegant B&B on one of the vineyard estates, with a change of the sightseeing sequence.
DAY 2
Craiova – Târgu Jiu – Bălănești – Horezu
This morning we shall head North-West, to the sub-Carpathian Gorj County. And there we shall have a break in Târgu Jiu, so as to look into the life and work of a man that revolutionized sculpture in the beginning of the 20th century. Born in the village of Hobi.a not very far from Târgu Jiu, Constantin Brâncu.i is considered among the pioneers of Modernism with his reverting to what he considered to be the authentic, core simplicity; his Bird in Space and Madame Pogany still puzzle those seeing them for the first – and not only the first – time. Starting from his place of origin that also inspired him throughout his life, we shall first see his memorial house in Hobi.a, which stands as an outstanding example of vernacular architecture where timber was the main raw material and of the way locals used space as a means of organizing their existence. After this break and introduction in the Wallachian tradition, we shall reach Târgu Jiu and see Brâncu.i’s works of art there, all planned and placed with a geometric mind in 1938: the Gate of the Kiss, the Table of Silence and the Column of Infinity. Leaving Târgu Jiu with the Column of Infinity in mind (not only because it will be the last Brâncu.i sight there), we shall move on and look into a great Oltenian craft: that of kilim making. Locally known as “scoar.a”, the kilim has had a long history in the region, as it used to be the main indoor decorative element in a country girl’s dowry; the quality of the kilims the girl brought in a newly established family was related to the latter’s social status. The motifs and patterns employed include highly stylized floral and animal elements, the tree of life, the peacock, the wheat ear and geometrical symbols, while the often vivid colours (which are still from natural sources such as: onion leaves, walnut leaves, elderberry seeds or various weeds) make them highly attractive. Reaching Horezu, we shall then visit the two major local attractions, both as interesting. First, completed in 1693, Hurezi Monastery stands as a major work of Brâncoveanu architecture. Ruler of Wallachia, Constantin Brâncoveanu created his own architectural style, by blending in Western Baroque and Oriental lines, all that on the background given by vernacular patterns. Then, we shall see a similar interest in colour while admiring the Horezu pottery in the workshop of one of the local craftsmen: the feather design, the Horezu rooster pattern, as well as the frequent solar motifs will further introduce us in the Wallachian art and life approach.
- Breakfast.
- Visit to Constantin Brâncu.i’s birth home in Hobi.a, a fine sample of vernacular architecture in the region.
- Walk in Târgu Jiu to see Constantin Brâncu.i’s three works: the Gate of the Kiss, the Table of Silence and the Column of Infinity.
- Visit to a local kilim weaver and presentation of the craft.
- Visit to Hurezi Monastery.
- Presentation of the Horezu pottery.
- Accommodation near Horezu, 4* hotel set in traditional style or 4* mansion.
DAY 3
Horezu – Măldărești – Cucești – Poienari – Curtea de Argeș
A particularity in a great share of the Balkan Peninsula, Medieval tower houses can be found from Albania and Bosnia-Herzegovina to North Macedonia and Wallachia (more specifically Oltenia, the part of Wallachia we are in). Usually built of stone, later of brick, they had 2-4 storeys, and blended in the residential and military functions, as they acted as small fortresses meant to protect an extended family. Which reminds one the fact that their very name in Serbian (kula), Albanian (kulla) or Romanian (culă) is derived from Arabic “qal’a” via the Turkish “kule” meaning a fortress or fort. With many others, some of which are nowadays ruined, spread across Wallachia (with two fine others West of Craiova, in Cernătești and Brabova), the two “culas” we are going to see this morning, Greceanu’s and Duca’s, date from the 18th, respectively 19th centuries, and show a fine association of the original defensive features and art. The strong hardwood doors, high ceilings, narrow ground floor (or lack of) windows, the picturesque loggia and the overall massive looks are highly evocative for the time and situation they were built in. After this visit, we shall head Southwards, deeper into the countryside where we shall find the old wooden Urși Church. Probably going back to 1757, the church saw the addition of interior and exterior, vivid colour mural paintings in 1843, and it is a sample of the many such painted wood churches in this part of Oltenia. Heading back North towards the mountains, we shall then look into a different part of Wallachian history, namely the medieval fortresses and sequence of Wallachian capitals before Bucharest. Perched on a cliff overlooking the deep valley below, Poienari Fortress was built in the 14th century and then developed by Vlad the Impaler in the following century. While the 1480 stairs leading there and restoration works might make it inaccessible in certain circumstances, its very appearance from the road upstream definitely give one a hint of its strategic location and looks centuries ago. The sightseeing day will end in Curtea de Argeș, the second capital of Wallachia after Câmpulung, with its fine Byzantine style Princely Church going back to 1352 and original part of the Princely Court. Also, Curtea de Argeș is home to a great monastery built in 1517, complete with its exquisitely done steeples with their twisted design, as well as with the fascinating legend connected with its foundation.
- Breakfast.
- Visit to the two culas in Măldărești.
- Exterior view (if open, also visit inside) of the Urși Church.
- Visit or view from up the road of Poienari Fortress.
- Visit to the Princely Church in Curtea de Argeș.
- Visit to Curtea de Argeș Monastery.
- Accommodation in Curtea de Argeș, 4* hotel or 3* traditional theme guesthouse.
DAY 4
Curtea de Argeș – Câmpulung – Târgoviște
Not possible on Mondays
Leaving the second capital of Wallachia this morning, we shall go up and down the hills to the first capital of the historical principality, Câmpulung. With its history going back to the 13th century, starting with 1330 the town was used as a permanent residence by Prince Basarab I, the first ruler of Wallachia. Given its location on a major, mountain crossing trading route linking Wallachia and Transylvania, the town was endowed with a customs point and started to rapidly develop, mainly out of trade. The significant Saxon population of the time (Brașov-originating merchants) brought about the Catholic religion in a mostly Orthodox region (with Bărăția Church founded in the 13th century being the oldest still standing church in town), as well as strong architectural influences. At the same time, the extensive Negru Vodă Monastery built in the 14th century and surrounded with strong fortress walls provided shelter to the local community not only once during the turbulent Middle Ages. Leaving Câmpulung, we shall then approach the mountains and eventually follow the scenic Dâmbovița River downstream to Târgoviște, the third capital of Wallachia. Following constant habitation after the Roman withdrawal, and the initial rural settlements of the 12th – 13th centuries then developed into a town that would host the princely residence in the early 15th century. However Târgoviște would be more than a mere military and administrative town, as the early 16th century Dealu Monastery located a few kilometers out of its walls would act as one of the major cultural centres in Wallachia. Therefore, after a visit to the Princely Court including its lonely Sunset Tower, we shall end the day with a visit to this fine monastery on its top of the hill location affording a comprehensive view over the plains Southwards.
- Breakfast.
- Walk in the old town in Câmpulung.
- Visit to the Negru Vodă Monastery.
- Visit to the Princely Court in Târgoviște.
- Visit to Dealu Monastery off Târgoviște.
- Accommodation in Târgoviște, 3* hotel or B&B.
DAY 5
Târgoviște – Sinaia – Bușteni – Urlați/Ceptura – Bucharest
Not possible on Mondays and Tuesdays
Leaving Medieval Wallachia for a while today, we shall start by crossing a Southern crest of the Bucegi Mountains and then head down to Sinaia. The mountain resort here flourished around the summer residence of the Romanian royal family, the impressive Peleș Castle started in 1873 and completed in 1914, palace that itself was built close to a historic monastery going back to 1690 and named after Mount Sinai, the site of divine revelation where God is purported to have appeared to Moses and given him the Ten Commandments. Here we shall visit the castle with its richly decorated and furnished rooms set more like a museum or an art collection than a place to live. Optionally, we can also visit the smaller Pelișor Castle completed in 1903 and meant for the inheritors of the royal family, which strikes through the entirely different decoration employing a blend of Celtic and Byzantine features much favoured by the celebrated Queen Maria of Romania. We shall then move on upstream to Bușteni, home to Cantacuzino Castle completed in 1911 in an entirely different style while employing the local, Brâncoveanu architecture and affording a wonderful view over Bucegi Mountains; the castle was built by the richest Romanian of his time, once mayor of Bucharest, several times minister and twice prime minister, Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino. And then, we shall proceed Southwards with a detour to the Dealu Mare hilly (as the name has it) region just down the Carpathians, offering some of the best conditions in the country for vineyards. Here, on a small estate run by a handful of dedicated friends, we shall taste the local wines of which the local Fetească Albă and Fetească Neagră. And then, we shall head down to Bucharest, a city that will welcome us with its diverse architecture, rich history and nonetheless mouth watering pastry!
- Breakfast.
- Visit to Peleș Castle in Sinaia.
- Optional visit to Pelișor Castle.
- Visit to Cantacuzino Castle in Bușteni.
- Wine tasting at Dagon Estate off Ceptura.
- Accommodation in a 4* hotel hosted by a characterful, elegant period property in the city centre or on the verge of the former Jewish Quarter.
DAY 6
Bucharest – Potlogi – Mogoșoaia – Bucharest
This morning is dedicated to Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu, who ruled over Wallachia between 1688 and 1714, which we also encountered in Horezu. An enlightened figure, he developed his own architectural style in a blend of Oriental patterns and typically rich Baroque decorations, building or setting the framework for followers to build churches and mansions that would keep his legacy alive well beyond the point where, after trying to sign anti-Ottoman alliances first with the Habsburgs and then with the Russians, together with his four sons, he was invited to Istanbul, told to give up Christianity in exchange for being pardoned, refused and was duly beheaded. Today, as his palace in downtown Bucharest no longer exists, we shall see two of his out of town, summer residences, the palaces in Potlogi and Mogoșoaia. While both impress one with their fine carved stone artwork, the former also has some excellent plaster and paint designs featuring floral motifs reminding one the Persian art in the Kashan mansions, while the latter’s larger enclosure on the lake shore, great park and adjacent 1698 church add diversity to the visit. The afternoon will be dedicated to a relaxed walk in the Village Museum hosted by the city’s largest park, the Herăstrău. Founded in 1936 by Sociologist Dimitrie Gusti, the museum comprises of genuine old houses from all over Romania (among which the Wallachian group is quite representative), taken to pieces and rebuilt village-like here. A great way of completing yet another day of looking into the local architecture and overall life approach…
- Breakfast.
- Visit to Potlogi Palace.
- Visit to Mogoșoaia Palace.
- Visit to the Village Museum in Bucharest.
- Accommodation in a 4* hotel hosted by a characterful, elegant period property in the city centre or on the verge of the former Jewish Quarter.
DAY 7
Bucharest
Not possible on Mondays or Tuesdays
Let us explore the city proper today, looking into the maze of merchant and craftsman streets in the old town (many of which still bear the names of the guilds that once had their shops there, or of the towns merchants present there came from), dotted as it is with typical inns (the best preserved of which are the Manuc and Gabroveni), old churches (the oldest of which is the Curtea Veche built in 1554, while the most scenic of which is the jewel-like Stavopoleos built in 1724) and ruins (among which those of the Old Court or the underground remains of the great Șerban Vodă Inn). After a break during which we shall sample the varieties of local, traditional pastry in the old town, we shall carry on along the popular Calea Victoriei, initially known as the Podu’ Mogoșoaiei (En. “the plank-paved road to Mogoșoaia”), as it made the connection between the town palace of Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu and his summer residence in Mogoșoaia we visited the previous day, making one step further in the city history and discovering the entirely different architecture of the late 19th and 20th centuries including highlights such as the Post Company Building, the CEC Building, the former Marmorosch Bank Headquarters, the Carol I Foundation, the Royal Palace and the Athenaeum. Our tour will end with a visit to one of the following museums which will draw the line after this Wallachian journey: the Suțu Palace completed in 1835 and hosting the Bucharest History Museum or the oldest house in Bucharest, the Casa Melik built in 1750-1760, complete with its typical urban dwelling plan and fine Theodor Pallady painting collection it hosts. Either way, we might choose to conclude the Wallachian tour upon a glass of bragă (traditional fermented millet drink) or over a rich ciorbă (sour soup)…
- Breakfast.
- Walk across the old town including sights such as Manuc’s Inn, Gabroveni Inn, the Old Court and the adjacent church, Stavropoleos Church, the Macca-Villacrosse Passage.
- Tasting of local pastry in the old town.
- Walk up the Calea Victoriei to Revolution Square with explanations on the sights along the way.
- Visit to one of the two museums: the Bucharest History Museum hosted in the Suțu Palace or the Casa Melik.
- Optional dinner at the Casa Doina, formerly known as “the roadside buffet”, hosted by a superb, heritage, neo-Brâncoveanu style property designed by celebrated Architect Ion Mincu and completed in 1892, or at the local Nicorești serving a wide range of local, non-restaurant dishes.
- End of services.
Photo Gallery
